Thursday, July 19, 2007


Lots to talk about this week....
After having a nice relaxing night back in Sarajevo last Thursday, our group headed to Srebenica, Bosnia, which is the site of the 1995 genocide where over 8,000 Bosnian men and boys were killed by Serbian forces. We visited the memorial site and graveyard, and toured the factory where UN soldiers held 5,000 people in hopes of saving them. (After keeping the people there for two days, they were forced to kick them out - basically handing them over to the soldiers waiting outside.) The memorial site was very touching and emotional - it reminded me a lot of the Vietnam memorial, with lists and lists of those killed during the genocide. We also watched a video that included footage of those 9 days, and showed the men basically marching to their death, as well as the soldiers laughing and joking about what they were about to do. It was really difficult to watch. The video also showed President Clinton, who visited Srebenica for the dedication of the memorial. It was a clear reminder of just how little we (the U.S.) did to prevent so much of what was going on.
After leaving the memorial, our project coordinator had our drivers take us to one of the mass grave sites that was recently discovered and in the process of being excavated for bodies. I didn't even get out of the car - to me, it was a little morbid to stand around looking at unidentified victims of this horrific incident. I felt as though we were acting as tourists taking in the sights, and just didn't feel it was respectful of the people and families who still don't have closure. The students who did go thought it was very interesting to hear about the work being done by ICMP (the International Center for Missing Persons), but for me, it just didn't feel right.


To make ourselves feel better (and who am I kidding, just to have a good time) myself and Chico decided we should get our butts over to Novi Sad, Serbia, for Exit Fest, one of Europe's biggest music festivals. We got there early Saturday morning, and had a great day wandering the city, hanging out on the shores of the Danube, napping in the park, and drinking lots and lots of coffee. Later in the day, we headed across the river to this giant old citadel where the festival was held. We got inside before there were too many people there, and had the opportunity to wander around and see the grounds without 50,000 other people. The line up for the night we were there was Lauryn Hill (pictured above - yeah, that's right, I was that close!), Basement Jaxx (who rocked) and Snoop Dogg. So I got to see Snoop Dogg play from 2-4 AM, with about 30,000 Serbians singing every word right next to me! It was quite the experience. For the rest of the morning there was a huge dance party going on, but I just didn't have the energy so Chico and I headed back to the park to get a little rest. After sleeping on a park bench for a few hours, we did some shopping, then headed to Belgrade in an attempt to find a bus back to Sarajevo.


Belgrade was definitely an interesting place to see, but very run down. You can tell it was once a beautiful city, but has lost its charm. We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant on the Danube, then walked the city before getting on our overnight bus to Sarajevo. (Let me add that we were absolutely filthy, can't have smelled too good, and completely exhausted. It was a fun bus ride.)
We immediately went up to Vareš after getting in and showering Monday morning, and taught school as usual all week. We only have three more days in Vareš (and I only have 10ish more in Bosnia) and I know that I am really going to miss this place. I've gotten so attached to my students, and can't say I pictured feeling this way 2 months ago. Next week is the Vareš summer festival and our school picnic, so I think it will at least be a nice sendoff and a good way to say goodbye.
Came back early this afternoon and went to visit the Bosnian Federal Court with our class. Extremely interesting, and since we watched a portion of the trial of some of those charged with the war crimes committeed in Srebenica, it was a nice bookend to last week's trip. So off to reflection now, and then heading out to enjoy one of my last weekends in Bosnia!!

1 comment:

susan said...

wow! i cant imagine what that must have been like, to see the memorial or to go to the mass graves. i too dont think i would have liked to get out of the car, it seems like a private thing and it would be wrong to be there gauking.
oh goodness you are trying to make me worry about you, arent you???? sleeping in a strange city on a park bench?????? stop that!
im sorry that you will be sad to leave, but i will be glad to have you safe back in this country!!!